Flamenco shows in the caves of Granada

Granada is perhaps most associated with the wonders of the exquisite fortress-palace of the Alhambra. However, in the city below and on the hillside opposite, there is an awful lot more to explore, particularly when it comes to flamenco. Recently the W2SF team spent some magical time there to find out.  

We checked into our apartment, located in the heart of the famous Albaicín area. It is a labyrinth of winding, medieval streets with whitewashed buildings, cobblestones, steps and steep inclines leading down towards the river Darro and the centre of Granada. Travel guides describe many towns as charming, and Albaicin and the neighbouring Sacromonte area rank right up there in the charm stakes. Albaicin contains an excellent selection of pleasant eateries, small shops and bars – and together with Sacromonte also offers a profusion of flamenco venues. This totally makes sense as the Sacromonte area, with its caves cut into the hillside, was the home of Romani people and the cradle of flamenco in Granada. 

The energy of this place is absolutely tremendous. Bustling in the morning and buzzing in the evening, during the scorching hot summer afternoons, here, as in much of Andalucia, the streets are deserted. Our traditional apartment complex included what was termed a swimming pool – but we thought it might have originally been a drinking trough for the goats or cattle! Nonetheless, the water in the pool was deliciously cold, and it was just big enough for an enjoyable afternoon dip. 

We soon found out that this city is absolutely packed with flamenco venues, some offering a very high technical standard of flamenco and others something of a nostalgic party vibe. Plus, flamenco in the hillside cave dwellings of the Sacromonte area may be unique to Granada. During our first week in Granada, we visited two of the best.

From the city centre, it’s a bit of a climb up along the river to Sacromonte. Still, on the way up, the views of the Alhambra on the opposite hillside are breathtaking. Some say Granada is the most beautiful city in Andalusia, perhaps the most beautiful city in all of Spain. They may well be right.  

Our first visit to the caves was to Cueva Los Amayas. Cueva Los Amayas is in one of Sacromonte’s old cave dwellings and is named after the Amaya family, steeped in Granada’s flamenco history and tradition. The cave, with a capacity of about 40 guests, contains a long, narrow gallery, maybe 20 metres long and a few metres wide. The walls are rough and whitewashed, adorned with old flamenco photos of artists who have performed there over the years. An array of pots and pans hangs down from the ceiling. 

We arrive for the 9:30 pm show on a balmy summer evening. The temperature is cooler now than in the mid-afternoon, but not by much. We get lucky and are given seats directly in front of the five chairs where the cuadro — the flamenco performers — will sit. The cave is filling up. Guests line up on both sides of the gallery, shoulder to shoulder, creating a close, intimate atmosphere. Some are drinking beer or sangria. Refreshing cold water is also a very good choice. We are getting ready now for the performance, and the artists take the stage. There are introductions in Spanish and in English. The show feels more like a party in someone’s living room. The guitarist is belting out a fun rhythm. The two female dancers strut their stuff on the narrow strip directly in front of us. We are so close to the dancing that at times I wonder if my foot is going to get stamped on. Of course, the dancers know with millimetre precision exactly where they are and thankfully my toes are safe. The male dancer looks majestic in black trousers, a polka dot shirt and a white tux. He is camping it up to shouts of “guapo”, which means “handsome”. 

The show races along at a spanking pace, with dramatic performances from all five artists. There is a genuine vibe that these artists are enjoying themselves and get along really well with one another. We are treated to an hour or so of excellent high-energy flamenco, with some wonderful moments of exciting improvisation and innovation. The whole show is rounded off by rapturous applause from a delighted audience.  

Night has fallen now and we take a walk along the river back into the centre. The steep walk back up to Albaicin and our apartment is a bit beyond us, and the luxury of a reasonably-priced cab is very welcome! 

A few days later we are back at another one of the cuevas. This time it is Zambra María La Canastera, a historic cave dwelling and museum, which was once the home and performance venue of a world famous flamenco artist, Maria Cortes Heredia, born in 1913. As we arrive early to join the queue, the previous show is approaching its raucous end and we can hear stamping, clapping, loud singing and a guitar slapping out the chords. 

Once inside we are seated close to the entrance and near where the six artists will perform. The decor of this cueva is very similar to the one earlier in the week. Long, narrow and adorned with flamenco artefacts and cooking utensils. There are red polka dot curtains at the far end, where one of the bedrooms would once have been. We are served a refreshing drink, and the venue is filling up. There are a good few Spanish people here, including some ladies from Barcelona, with whom we chat later. And of course, plenty of other nationalities as well. The show is very slick and dynamic with the guitarist belting out the chords and singing along too. There are two female dancers who perform directly in front of us. Then the male dancer, dancing solo. An older woman, perhaps the head of the family, takes a turn singing with great support from the rest of the artists. Some faces in the audience are filled with amazement as the show progresses. Finally we reach the climax and fin de fiesta – the end of the party. 

We are beginning to notice differences in the flamenco in Granada compared with the other cities where we have seen it, such as Malaga, Seville and Madrid. This may be a subjective opinion, but we have certainly noticed a lot more 4/4 rhythms, and more power chord strumming. Especially here in the cave of Zambra María La Canastera, the flamenco seems much more earthy, and more connected to the gypsy tradition. It is much more like a family party, in fact. This makes sense as the Zambra format originated amongst the Romani people as a pre-nuptial celebration and provided gypsy women with an opportunity to get up and dance! The narrowness of both Zambra María La Canastera and Cueva Los Amayas adds an intimacy or feeling of closeness, with the dancers performing on a narrow series of wooden boards on the floor between the audience on both sides. The dancers on the tabla in a flamenco theatre are never quite that close. There is also a different acoustic in the caves which actually lends itself well to the sound of the guitar being belted out and the singing without amplification. 

Both shows last around an hour. Lively, no-frills performances, but definitely a great night out, a glimpse of the gypsy traditions of the past, all round excellent entertainment and appreciative audiences. General tips for both shows are to arrive early and to dress comfortably. Those narrow caves can get quite hot in the summer!

 Cueva Los Amayas 

• Address: Camino del Sacromonte, 57, Albayzín, 18010 Granada
• Phone: +34 958 918 029
• Website: flamencogranada.org (Flamenco Granada)
• Email: info@flamencogranada.org
• Shows: Every day; typical showtimes are 18:30, 19:30, 20:00, and 21:30; in July/August the shows usually run at 19:30 and 21:30

 Zambra Maria La Canastera

• Address: Camino del Sacromonte, 89, Sacromonte, 18010 Granada

• Phone: +34 666 64 78 95
• Website: marialacanastera.com
• Email: info@marialacanastera.com
• Shows: Every evening, usually one performance at 21:00

Check out our new flamenco guide, Where To See Flamenco Costa del Sol