Nerja: perfect for a pre-Xmas flamenco getaway
Just ten days before Christmas, the W2SF team headed out to the charming seaside town of Nerja to explore the flamenco scene there. Located on the eastern edge of the Costa del Sol, Nerja is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque spots along this stretch of coastline. Nestled against a dramatic backdrop of mountains, Nerja boasts some delightful golden sandy beaches tucked into rocky coves and has a fun and welcoming atmosphere.
The crowning jewel of Nerja is the Plaza del Balcón de Europa, a magnificent cliff-top promenade overlooking the Mediterranean. Once a 9th-century Moorish lookout, it is now a must-see destination with its sweeping panoramic views and lively ambiance. Legend has it that the name “Balcony of Europe” was given to this superb esplanade by King Alfonso XII of Spain during a visit in 1885, and his statue proudly stands on the edge of the plaza. However, research by local historians has revealed evidence suggesting that the spot was already known as Balcón de Europa some 10 years before the king’s visit!
Arriving late on a December afternoon, we were just in time to take in the rugged coastline against lucent twilight skies over the darkening waters of the Mediterranean. Then a breathtaking sunset set the sky ablaze with magnificent colour. Adding to the magic, musicians, including an accomplished flamenco guitarist, provided a delightful soundtrack to the experience. The Balcón de Europa looked especially enchanting with its festive Christmas lights illuminating the promenade and many of the winding pedestrian streets of the town, with dazzling effect. We also discovered that Nerja caters to international palates with a wide and diverse choice of eateries, including at least four Indian restaurants, with well-deserved reputations for excellent Indian and Nepalese cuisine.
As for flamenco, Nerja certainly didn’t disappoint. Aside from the talented street guitarist, the town contains two excellent venues for flamenco enthusiasts. The first is El Burro Blanco – The White Donkey – a cozy tablao that hosts a varied and rotating lineup of flamenco artists from Málaga and beyond, every Saturday night. On the night of our visit, we were treated to an excellent performance by a mother-son duo of singer and guitarist, paired with a father-daughter team of flamenco dancers, who treated us to an unforgettable display of passion and skill. After the performance, visitors with energy for more music can head to El Molina La Tasca de Frasco, a nearby bar just around the corner, where live performances kick off at 10 pm, most evenings featuring flamenco performances.
With its unique blend of cultural richness, stunning natural beauty, and festive cheer, Nerja provides the perfect pre-Christmas flamenco getaway. The festive season in Spain reaches its peak on 6 January when with parades and gift-giving, the locals celebrate the arrival of the Reyes Magos – the Three Kings or Three Wise Men. W2SF concluded that this was the perfect time of year for a short stay in the charming town of Nerja, where you can enjoy its many attractions, including its deep ties to the flamenco tradition.